Топы и маечки спицами

скопилось много остатков пряжи,хотелось-бы перевод[IMG]http://f20.ifotki.info/thumb/bf8adcef0b45308266156d139b81e34d5f6e50260720849.jpg[/IMG]-MORE FEARLESS KNITTING: ON THE BIAS, FOR DIAGONAL FABRIC LAURA BRYANT©2009

Sizes: S (M, L, XL)
Finished bust approx 40 (44, 48, 52)”
Body is slightly oversized to allow for drape.
Materials: approx 700 (800, 900, 1000) yds size 3 & 4 yarns,
plus 80 yds trim yarn
Needles size 8 or size to get gauge
Crochet hook size E & F
Gauge: In garter st alterna۳ng 3 yarns of 1 row each:
18 sts & 34 rows = 4”
Note: Gradated color blending is easy. Before beginning, lay all yarns
out lightest to darkest. If you have purchased a kit, the skeins are
already labeled A, B, C, etc. Label your own custom choice as needed.
3 di嗓erent yarns are used for 1 row each:
CO with A; drop A and a弥ach B; k 1 row B; drop B and a弥ach C; k 1 row
C and A is wai۳ng for next row. To keep yarns from tangling, place one
ball on either side and one ball between your legs, and watch when
you turn the work: one direc۳on tangles, the other direc۳on does
not. Color grada۳on is achieved by working A, B, C for a few inches,
then B, C, D, then C, D, E and so on, arranging colors loosely from light
to dark. Work front as mirror image of back (begin from other corner).
Work back 弥rst, then work front approxima۳ng color placement—it
doesn’t have to match exactly. Work more rows of yarns with more
yardage, even if it means that some۳mes a yarn is used for longer
than its rota۳on. As you work, check remaining amounts of yarn
and make any adjustments. Don’t worry about breaking the rota۳on
and repea۳ng a yarn if needed—we did! We had 9 di嗓erent yarns,
labeled A through I. Adjust measurements below if you have more
or fewer yarns.
Back: With A, CO 3 sts. With B, inc 1 in 弥rst st, k to end. With C,
inc 1 in 弥rst st, k to end. Inc in the 弥rst st on all rows. Make all
measurements along selvedge edge, not from corner to needle.
Work A, B, C to approx 6 (7, 8, 9)”, then drop A and add D. Work B,
C, D to approx 12”, then drop B and add E.
Work C, D, E to approx 17”.
Work D, E, F to 20 (22, 24, 26)”, then cont on D, E, F, beg dec: work
to end of row, k 2 tog last 2 sts. Measuring from 1st decrease, cont in
D, E, F to approx 3” from corner.
Work E, F, G to approx 8”.
Work F, G, H for to approx 14”.
Work G, H, I to approx 20 (22, 24, 26)”: When 1 st remains, fasten
o嗓.
Front: Repeat as for back.
Finishing: Sew shoulder seams, leaving approx 7 (8, 8Ѕ, 9)” open for
neck. Sew side seams, leaving approximately 3-4” open at hem for
side slit. With trim yarn, work 1 row sc and 1 row rev sc around hem
and slits, and around neck and armhole openings. MORE FEARLESS KNITTING: ON THE BIAS, FOR DIAGONAL FABRIC LAURA BRYANT©2009
Beginning at one corner and increasing at each edge produces a
fabric that has diagonal direc
www.prismyarn.com info@prismyarn.com
Diagonal Shell Designed by Laura Bryant©2009
Sizes: S (M, L, XL)
Finished bust approx 40 (44, 48, 52)”
Body is slightly oversized to allow for drape.
Materials: approx 700 (800, 900, 1000) yds size 3 & 4 yarns,
plus 80 yds trim yarn
Needles size 8 or size to get gauge
Crochet hook size E & F
Gauge: In garter st alterna۳ng 3 yarns of 1 row each:
18 sts & 34 rows = 4”
Note: Gradated color blending is easy. Before beginning, lay all yarns
out lightest to darkest. If you have purchased a kit, the skeins are
already labeled A, B, C, etc. Label your own custom choice as needed.
3 di嗓erent yarns are used for 1 row each:
CO with A; drop A and a弥ach B; k 1 row B; drop B and a弥ach C; k 1 row
C and A is wai۳ng for next row. To keep yarns from tangling, place one
ball on either side and one ball between your legs, and watch when
you turn the work: one direc۳on tangles, the other direc۳on does
not. Color grada۳on is achieved by working A, B, C for a few inches,
then B, C, D, then C, D, E and so on, arranging colors loosely from light
to dark. Work front as mirror image of back (begin from other corner).
Work back 弥rst, then work front approxima۳ng color placement—it
doesn’t have to match exactly. Work more rows of yarns with more
yardage, even if it means that some۳mes a yarn is used for longer
than its rota۳on. As you work, check remaining amounts of yarn
and make any adjustments. Don’t worry about breaking the rota۳on
and repea۳ng a yarn if needed—we did! We had 9 di嗓erent yarns,
labeled A through I. Adjust measurements below if you have more
or fewer yarns.
Back: With A, CO 3 sts. With B, inc 1 in 弥rst st, k to end. With C,
inc 1 in 弥rst st, k to end. Inc in the 弥rst st on all rows. Make all
measurements along selvedge edge, not from corner to needle.
Work A, B, C to approx 6 (7, 8, 9)”, then drop A and add D. Work B,
C, D to approx 12”, then drop B and add E.
Work C, D, E to approx 17”.
Work D, E, F to 20 (22, 24, 26)”, then cont on D, E, F, beg dec: work
to end of row, k 2 tog last 2 sts. Measuring from 1st decrease, cont in
D, E, F to approx 3” from corner.
Work E, F, G to approx 8”.
Work F, G, H for to approx 14”.
Work G, H, I to approx 20 (22, 24, 26)”: When 1 st remains, fasten
o嗓.
Front: Repeat as for back.
Finishing: Sew shoulder seams, leaving approx 7 (8, 8Ѕ, 9)” open for
neck. Sew side seams, leaving approximately 3-4” open at hem for
side slit. With trim yarn, work 1 row sc and 1 row rev sc around hem
and slits, and around neck and armhole openings.

4427

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